I'm curious how everyone takes corners...

dont do what i do.... apparently it gets you in da woods....

bomjoon wrote:

dont do what i do.... apparently it gets you in da woods....

*gets out noted pad*

Now bom discribe in detail what I should not being doing that you did?

forget to turn

at least make sure you have a 4 point harness to keep yo tail strapped in the seat

+65465465165432513546351635413.8

i'm the smoothest driver ever, ask bubbles

i am not even remotely smooth but since I tend to control my car with throttle more than steering input, it works.(I blame the MR's)

as far as the corner it depends, i tend to brake earlier than most, or way later, never in the same spot as anyone

Late for hairpins, early for sweepers, if you were to throw rally terms on em, 1 and 2, late brake, 3-8, early braking, equals early throttle which equals more exit speed

Its kind of hard to say you take corners a certain way when every corner is totally different.

^ wtf...

no idea...it said posting error, then that showed up

What I meant to say was this, tho:

You should never coast...ever. If you're coasting, you're losing time, especially on a track. If you coast in, it means you were off throttle to early and / or breaking to late. If you coast through the apex, you either came in to hot or didn't get on throttle soon enough. Most beginners like coasting in because it's easier to hit the apex - which is by far the most important aspect of cornering.

Given two identical cars, every 1mph faster on corner exit speed equates to 10' per second. Therefore, if you exit a corner 2mph fast and hit a 6 second straight away, you'll have a 120' advantage (given all other things equal).

If you haven't had a chance to take a SRDEC, you guys should seriously consider it. You will learn more in one track day than you will in one year of self taught driving.

The point that you should be coasting is at the end of an accl. point right before you get on the brake...

This will help the balance of the car and will allow the weight transfer to happen without putting an extra load on your brakes. This will give alil bit more endurance in a downhill or long road race event.

Now you dont coast long, just enough to feel the weight transfer happen, the it is on the brake time. I had a driving discussion with Neel Jani who drove in Champ Car and is now driving in A1GP.

~The_Duke~ wrote:

This will help the balance of the car and will allow the weight transfer to happen without putting an extra load on your brakes. This will give alil bit more endurance in a downhill or long road race event.
.

We'll have to agree to disagree, because to me, coasting is time you could be going faster. If endurance is an issue, get better brakes. I ate through an entire set of Carbotech xp12 pads in one session at TGP, which is why I'll be getting a BBK in the future.

haha... Ya... BBK costs lots of money... lol

I do see your point though for autox and tighter mountain roads.

you can get away with a BBK for less than $1k if you shop around enough and sell the brembos on your new ride

Balance just happens.

You don't have to balance the car on transition from throttle to brakes. People think that cars are more sensitive than they actually are.

Yeah, just don't jam the brakes and it will be fine. As long as your feet are smooth you shouldn't upset the car too much ... that's why the struts/shocks are there.

I do coast slightly in some corners just before the apex if I need to adjust my line. Generally, you're on the throttle through a turn after you ease off the trail braking.

i need to upgrade my rear brakes... the fronts are too massive compared to the rears..

bomjoon wrote:

i need to upgrade my rear brakes... the fronts are too massive compared to the rears..

Do you still have the stock Brembos...or are you on a BBK kit. You can always change the bias by changing pad compounds. I've done a lot of testing in subies and evos with different pad compounds, if you want some recommendations let me know.

Matt

Matt, Bomjoon has a 240 now with his evo brembos on the front so I yea, BBK on the 40.

I think Mike had a wilwood brake bias changer thinga majig for sale. I'll see if he still has it.

yeah i need a different master cylinder and brake bias changer.

There are some pretty trick Bias adjusters for sale from the race parts suppliers that let you change bias on the fly with either a lever or a dial depending on what the setup is.

slowwrx wrote:

There are some pretty trick Bias adjusters for sale from the race parts suppliers that let you change bias on the fly with either a lever or a dial depending on what the setup is.

That is what bom needs cas he has 4-piston Evo brembos in the front of a Nissan S14, and stock rear little itty bitty brakes...

I believe he is having a problem locking up the fronts before he even gets even the slightest pressure on the rear.

~The_Duke~ wrote:

I believe he is having a problem locking up the fronts before he even gets even the slightest pressure on the rear.

He wants it like that so he can do power-brake burnouts when he gets a red-light next to a civic.

slowwrx wrote:

Balance just happens.

You don't have to balance the car on transition from throttle to brakes. People think that cars are more sensitive than they actually are.

It takes some adjustment though to get used to going from WOT directly to mashing the brakes. More mental.

Yeah there is a huge mental aspect for sure. Its all about the friction circle

1. Lock the outside knee against the tank, using your heel and toe to provide leverage.
2. Look as far through the turn as possible.
3. Square your shoulder and head with the exit of the turn.
4. Point the inside toe and knee out toward the apex.
5. If you're going in too hot, lean harder.
6. Get back on the throttle as early as possible.